We're Dave & Amelia Jensen, a couple of
Canadian fly fishers from Red Deer, Alberta, Canada. We travel to
New Zealand to fly fish for 2 or 3 months each year. We
hope to outline New Zealand fly fishing, and make sure that people
have some useful information about the hard realities of fly fishing
in New Zealand as well as the enjoyable facets. There are things
that we all have to deal with and be aware of when traveling, and New Zealand has its share of these things. The fly fishing
can be wonderful, but it isn't easy. That's more to do with the
variable weather and a few other factors. The 10+ pound fish are a draw,
but we want to make sure you know what you are getting into. We just
began to lay this page out in Nov, 2010, and will update/edit it many
more times. This page is an ongoing work in progress, meant to help
others.
First, we are not New Zealand guides.
If you want to be guided,
we recommend that you look up our friend
Serge Bonnafoux, Fish New
Zealand. He is
based out of Hanmer Springs, NW of Christchurch. He is a full
service guide to the north-central part of the south island. He can
provide single or multi day fly fishing trips with a variety of
accommodations. Access to his fishing waters is hiking, 4x4,
mountain bike, or helicopter. Literally, there is a massive
opportunity of waters to fish with Serge. The information and
concepts laid out on this page started with us taking a trip with
him and becoming quite good friends through the years. While some of
the information here appears to eliminate need for a guide, nothing
is further from the truth. As guides ourselves, we must emphasize
that everyone should hire a guide or fish with an experienced sight
fisherman to start their time in NZ in order to be successful.
Important Links you can't live without: New
Zealand Weather - If you've never experienced 450mm (18") of
rain in 10 hours before, you've not been to the west coast on the S
Island. If it's pouring on the west coast, then the east side of the
southern alps is likely dry, but the winds will be 100 to 160kmh.
Seriously. No joke. Weather is king - no escaping it. The weather
warning at right was Dec, 2009. The weather can be stunning - both
sun and wet. The
New Zealand Fly Fishing Forum - There's a ton of hidden
information on this site. Dig around the older posts, check out the
photos and see what kind of waters there are. The fellas are
friendly enough, but like every forum out there you don't just hop
on and posture. Poke around, say hi, introduce yourself. Don't
expect to be spoon fed. Be the fisherman online as much as on the
water. Hunt for the info. Nobody else cares if you catch a fish.
Kiwi
Maps - South Island Complete Drivers Atlas. Buy it. Order it online
well before you go. It goes hand in hand with Kent's book below and
by studying both together, you'll hit the ground running. If you're
paying to travel to fly fish in NZ for 2 weeks or more, buy both.
John Kent: "South Island Trout
Fishing Guide". Buy this book. Don't even think of going to NZ without it. It won't
tell you everything but it's the place to start for foreigners. Pay
attention to the minor details and hidden info. The book shops at
Auckland and Christchurch Int'l airports will have it, but you're
advised to pick them up on line ahead of time and read it. Why
wouldn't you do your homework if the trip is one you've wanted to do
for so long?
"Brown Trout Heaven" by Zane Mirfin: if you
can find it, buy this book.
MapWorld.co.nz - bottom of Columbus St in
Christchurch.
Sexy Loops NZ page
- A good page to detail more of what we're talking about here.
Fish & Game NZ - Check their site for updates, emergency
closures, fish studies, land use, etc. Trade Me - The Bargain
Finder / Auto Trader of New Zealand. Not much in NZ is cheap. It's a
small island in the middle of the Pacific. Add 40% to most imported
goods, minus exchange, add GST. Used goods work well and Trade Me has them. Fly Life E-Mag -
Again, look for the hidden info. Manic Tackle -
Another E-zine. Again, look for the hidden info. New Zealand Fishing - A good
site with all sorts of general information and adverts. Good news
section.
Fly Shops: Fisherman's Loft -
south of the airport 20 minutes in ChCh. Easy drive. Fly Shop - In Methven, west
of ChCh. Stu's Fly Shop - Along the
Mataura at Athol (south of Queenstown). The one and only. There
could only be one and only one of these. :)
Reefton Sports - Mid town on main street. You can't miss it. Won't
have a ton of stuff but enough to get you by. And a lot of local
knowledge.
BioSecurity - If you are bringing camping gear, fishing gear,
etc into the country, you will have to declare it to customs and you
will have to go through biosecurity. They may take something that
isn't clean, or isn't allowed, or they may take their time to clean
it. Make sure that you follow the rules.
Only travel with clean, dry gear. And make sure that you leave your
felt soled boots at home, they aren't allowed in NZ. There's a
serious didymo problem spreading like wildfire through NZ streams
and we need to take responsibility and do all we can to not spread
it any further. Make sure you know the rules before you travel so
you know what you may/not be allowed in the country with.
Guides - There are other guides in other
regions of New Zealand. Some are quite expensive. Ask if they feel
the pressure to get you on a 10 pound fish - if so, is this the kind
of pressure you want to experience on your vacation? If so - great!
If not, see if there's another guide who simply takes you fishing,
shows you how, and points out some of the other waters to try. Serge
offers a very good middle ground and is very amiable. Make sure you
communicate well with whomever you contact, and try to properly
convey what you are hoping for. If the guide 'gets' what you are
looking for and you 'get' what the guide offers and it's a match,
then you'll enjoy yourself. Bad guide experiences are 1/2 the guest,
1/2 the guide responsibility. Communicate with each other and treat
each other with compassion - you might make a friend for life. We
did with Serge & his wife, Sharron.
About how we fish & some things to
consider:
We
are not trophy hunters. 2010 was a mouse year, for example, but we
avoided the mouse rivers for the most part because we value solitude
over all else. We tried to get on a previously favorite river but -
being a beech forest - there were cars every 1km along the river.
Our goal is to fish in solitude, to enjoy the fish that we
encounter. Most fish we catch are 4 to 8 pounds. There are much
larger in New Zealand, but we focus on the out of the way waters
generally. They are simply more intimate and fun to explore. If we
walk 20km in a day to engage 10 trout 4 to 8 pounds, we've had a
wonderful day.
We have not helicopter fly fished in NZ, though it is rampantly
available. We do it at home a lot
as we operate a fly in fly fishing lodge, accessed by float plane.
We've done scores of trips to the Ram R canyon, to alpine lake for
golden trout back home. It can be a lot of fun but we don't do it in
NZ. We've heard from many that by mid season, many of the heli
accessed rivers have seen way more fishing pressure than other
waters. We drive, bike or hike.
In fact, we don't even use a 4x4 in NZ. We use Serge's old Subaru. I guess it has a 4x4 option, but we don't go too far off
road. We keep it simple because we love the exercise
and the experience of getting to the waters. We value the journey
far more than the event of another fish. That's not putting
the fish down, it's about being there... together. We're not
anti-heli fishing, just prefer otherwise. There are many excellent
heli-fishing trips to enjoy to amazing back country waters.
If you are going to camp or cross private property, ask the land
owners. You are a visitor in a foreign country. If you are given
permission, as often is the case, leave the place in better
condition than you found it. Ask land owners if you can help out in
any small way to show appreciation. Don't treat their land as your
toilet or dump site. Pay attention to where you can and can't
drive 4x4. Don't just drive across pastures. Ask first - always. :)
A lot has been made about spooky fish in NZ. The first day I
fished with a guide, I had a 4wt rod, DT chartreuse line, and a 14
foot leader to my fly. I wore a blue breathable undershirt on the
river. I got laughed at. Change this, change that, do this, do that.
I wound up casting a 6 wt, WF, with camo line, an 18+ foot leader to
a bushy Wulff with dropper. There was a stiff head wind. The first
fish sighted was 10 feet away. So...
how do those physics work? Fast forward to later that afternoon,
I still wore my blue shirt, but now I was with my 4wt, dt
chartreuse line, 14 foot leader with dropper. I haven't looked back.
I've worn orange and blue on these waters, it doesn't matter. My
chartreuse line has no detrimental impact. My 14 foot leaders don't
either. Last year I landed 23 straight sighted fish, with Amelia
doing a run of 9 at the same time - we landed 32 straight browns 4
to 10 pounds with our set up. We counted because the fishing seemed
easier and we were curious just what the numbers really were. After
the streak, we didn't bother. What's the point? So, read all you want about
spooky fish. They care more about approach and presentation than any
color scheme. As long as you don't approach like a flailing Titanic
and you know how to lay out a line, you'll catch fish. If a fish spooks,
it didn't "beat you". It had no idea it was in a competition. It
didn't like something, was about to leave the run or hold, or you
flat out pooched it. Try again. Sometimes we just don't know why a
fish spooks. The best laid cast and drift can see a fish spook
thanks to a flash reflection off your rod or reel, or maybe the line
landed on the water too hard, or maybe the metal on the curve of
your hook reflected light. You can only control what you can
control. Do that and you'll be successful more than not. Very few
back country trout care about fly patterns. Just like cutthroat
trout in N America, these fish will often eat anything if you can
get your fly to them. "What flies should I bring?" is the #1
question. Bring your fly box from home, dries and nymphs with some
streamers - add in a few cicadas and away you go. If you book a day
or a few days with a guide, he'll get into all those details, but for
everyone else, don't fret and don't impose the fear of God onto the
fishing. These are fish and they behave the same way your trout back
home do. Sure, they're likely bigger than your home waters, but they
still have to use the same micro habitats. Some might be tougher to get a take from, others will be
very easy.
Where do we fish? What are our favorite waters? Let me convey a
story. I had a fellow I guided on a tiny spring creek in Alberta,
Canada. We talked about NZ fishing. He uses a guide from a small
town north of where a friend of ours lives. My guest spoke of these
two fish his guide was catching - in the 8 to 10 lb range. They were
in a pool just above a confluence of two mid sized waters, on the
smaller river. He told me of how his guide would email photos or
stories of these two fish through the season. I thought about it and
began the deduction. My friend had been telling me about these two
trout he had been fishing through the season. He tried to drive me
to them but the rivers were blown out. But, he gave me updates on
the fish by email. From what I could reckon, my guest's guide and my
friend were likely fishing the exact same 2 fish, as the access to
the water I was thinking of was north for my friend, south for his
guide. When I piped up and asked my guest if it was __X__ River,
just above the confluence with the ___Y__ river, we both had a
laugh. Here we were 16,000 kilometers from these two fish, speaking
of the exact same two. The perception on the internet and in travel
books, magazines, etc is that there are lots of big fish. Once you
begin to understand the biology of the waters in NZ, their
constraints, the seasonal movements of fish, how productive the
ecosystems really are, and a whole host of
other factors, you begin to realize that it is a fairly sensitive
ecosystem. There's a reason you walk a long distance each day. There
aren't fish everywhere. It's biologically impossible and we need to
respect the resource. So, there's your long winded explanation as to
why we don't name river names.
Sandflies. I used to cruise timber for the Alberta Forest Service
in a foothills - mountainous region in Canada. Every once in a while I had to
cruise cutblocks in the north-east area of our district where it's a low
elevation, swampy bit. The flies and mosquitoes are hideous. I
remember one day, I swatted my hand in the air and grabbed at the
black flies. On one swath, I swatted and closed my hand to make a
fist on the flies. I grabbed 2 dozen, making black fly mush, and
didn't put a dent in the 10,000 flies swarming me. When I made notes
on my clipboard, it was all I could do not to freak out for the
insects crawling on me. I never thought I'd see anything worse. Then
I fished the west coast of New Zealand. One day I found myself with
an 8 pound brown rising in a trough 25 feet above me. It refused my
fly and I had to change. My hands were black with sandflies, my shirt
crawling, my neck hairline alive. I had already used a bottle of
deet. Undeterred, the sandflies fed. I barely got that fly tied on.
I was simply too rattled to fish properly and made an awful cast.
The sandflies are hideous at times. And they hurt when they bite.
And the bloody welts they leave itch to beat hell for up to 3 days.
They are the reason fly fishers don't wear shorts in NZ. The goofy
looking 'trend' of long johns under shorts is self preservation
against sandflies. You will want to drink bug juice. The trouble is,
if camping, you'll be covered in oily bug juice as you hop into bed
at night. You'll want a sleeping bag liner or a thin pair of pjs.
Sandflies are worst on the west coast and in the fiordlands.
Mouse
Years - We've hit one mouse year thus far. If you've looked into New
Zealand fly fishing, you know that a heavy beech forest mast
produces beech seeds which fall to the forest floor and rodent
populations explode. Hence, trout of 5 or 6 pounds become trout in
the 7 to 9 pound class quickly. After a mouse year, the fish can
drop weight in a hurry, and while they typically won't drop right
back to pre-mouse year weight, they'll definitely be lighter than
peak weight. They have to use that mousey weight to spawn and
compete with other bigger fish, and after the spawn they need to
endure winters in very low productive, generally rain swollen or
cold weather impacted waters. But while mouse invasions are confined
to beech forests, the trend is across the entire island of
healthier, bigger fish because beech masts tend to come with more
favorable weather trends, which means winters are a little warmer
and the weather more stable - less negative impact on the trout. If
you are specifically looking to fish beech forests to catch a
monster brown trout, those opportunities do exist, but you won't be
alone. It has a cult following, a large cult following that spreads
world wide. Popular rivers are very popular. Give the map to the
right a look - the green is the beech forests. It's not as though
the entire south island is beech forests and the rivers that flow
through them get their fair share of attention. But, you can find
pockets of isolation. In the 2010 mouse year, in nearly 3 months of
fishing, we did not run in to any other anglers. That's
pretty special, but it took a lot of planning and deduction as to
weather patterns and anticipated angler movement, as well as fishing
waters that get very little mention on internet sites, guide sites,
books, or in holiday parks/campgrounds. It worked.
Driving - If you've not driven on the left side of the road
before, it takes 1/2 a day to get used to it on the open road. Don't
fret it. That said, 2 lane round-a-bouts get your attention. If you
can, specify automatic transmission on your rental as shifting left
handed at the same time as getting used to left side of the road is
a little much all at once.
Food - There is a food store chain called
4-square markets that exist in most small towns. It has everything
you need and is pricier than the bigger towns where grocery chains
like "New World Market", "PakNSave" or "Big Fresh" offer far better
selection. If you are in the larger towns or cities, there are fresh
markets and wonderful produce. The dairy is very rich. Meat is
definitely different - the cows are grass fed and some people find
it tasting a little off compared to N America. There's good
availability of lamb, chicken, pork, and beef. Restaurants are
pricey in the more remote locations - $30 each for an avg plate of
fish & chips isn't uncommon. Fine dining exists in fly fishing
lodges or in restaurants in bigger towns and cities. If you're
fishing the back country you won't be anywhere near fine dining.
Huts
- There are a ton of huts available for you to spend the night. Some
are on private lands, leases, but the majority of them are on DoC
(Dept of Conservation) lands. Most will cost $5 to $20 a night per
person and some as a dry shelter with a place to sleep. They are as
simple as you can get. And many are right beside some amazing trout
water.
Water types
Lakes - If you are any kind of stillwater fly fisher and understand
hanging leeches under an indicator, know how to fish damsels, and
are even half-decent with chironomids, there are a ton of good lakes
to fish. Some of the popular NZ lakes see a lot of traffic, but
they're fished by trolling or casting spoons, etc. This works well,
of course, but there is so much opportunity with fly fishing methods
and so few are employing these tactics. If you buy the books
mentioned above and love lakes, there's a ton of water to explore.
Spring Creeks - If you understand New Zealand weather, and hydrology
pertaining to mountains, foothills, and plains at the toe of the
slopes, it's obvious that there has to be many excellent spring
creeks. They often don't get the attention the larger rivers get, as
the spring creeks don't always hold 10+ lb fish. But, we've stumbled
onto a few amazing, small spring creeks with 3 1/2 to 8 pound browns
and rainbows. These are found on the west and east side of the alps.
Google Earth reveals a lot of these. But here's a little tip for you
- always ask permission to fish the property. Pretty obvious. What's
not obvious is that you should then ask what time they herd the cows
in for milking. Why? Because usually at 3pm daily, the farmers take
their cows down a track beside the creek, then cross the stream
upstream on their way in to be milked. 150 cows thundering beside a
spring creek, then crossing it upstream of you will kill your day in
a hurry.
Streams & Rivers - The first question you need to ask people when discussing rivers
with the locals is if the river is clear or tannin. If you love to
sight fish, a tannin river is out on cloudy days and can be tough
even on sunny ones. If you get the right angle, fish glow, but if
there's no bench to look out from, it can be tough for new sight
fishers. If you're told the river is clear, it's likely to offer
good sighting. Ask if it's a popular one, if there's brush along the
edge (which might be miserable to walk through, but offers good back
drop for cloudy day contrasts to sight fish). Don't worry so much
about lots of fish, just if there's a few. If there's few people and
clear water and a few nice fish, it's a winner. There's a ton of
fish movement with the varying seasons. Smaller waters see their
fish leave as the water levels recede. You could do a lot of walking
and not see a fish once conditions change. Of course, the river the
stream flows into might have a bumper population for the summer
months.
Massive Rivers - Rivers like the mighty Clutha, Buller, Grey,
or Haast. Absolute monsters if it rains - and it often does. We
don't fish these often but if you break them down into the braided
channels, or look for rocky outcroppings along the edges, you'll
find fish, and often they'll be big.
Here's a few short videos of New Zealand.
We've been holding back our best video and editing for a series of
dvds that we plan to begin producing in 2011. The first dvd will be
"Sight Fishing Tactics"; followed by "Brown Trout on the Edge";
"Spring Creeks"; and detailing the south island of New Zealand
geared toward fly fishing travel. These things take time to develop
but we have a couple of them laid out. The ones below are just for
YouTube fun. :)